From his quiet workshop in Queens, New York, Andrew McAteer produces exceptional leather goods by hand, the old way. A 5th-generation New Yorker, Andrew has always had an appreciate for traditional craftsmanship, having worked as a carpenter and furniture maker before turning to leatherwork.
Everything is made slowly, by one person (Andrew). His lasts are custom developed, hand-whittled to shape by Andrew - with each subsequent pair of footwear being hand-lasted to his custom fittings. Plus, like any good pair of shoes, these can be fully rebuilt by a trusted and capable cobbler whenever the soles wear down.
The Horse Bit Loafer is a excellent reimagining of the iconic runway style, with the McAteer edition being made from premium shell cordovan and heavyweight brass bits. Shockingly versatile, they can be easily dressed up with more formal attire, but look no less handsome when paired with denim or more casual bottoms thanks to the visual weight of the bit and hand welt.
These are made from Horween's famous Color 8 Shell Cordovan leather, one of the most handsome and iconic leathers to come from the Chicago tannery. With a rich red-brown coloration, the uppers feature a pronounced pull-up effect, where areas under tension will appear lighter and relaxed areas will appear darker, as well as a gentle shine. The inside of the leather is undyed, so scuffs past the surface will reveal the natural core beneath.
Shell cordovan is cut from a very specific membrane of the horsebutt, before being subjected to specialized tanning and finishing procedures. The unique grain texture of this shell-shaped wedge of the hide (hence the name "shell") produces spectacular leather goods, as the leather forms gentle sloping rolls over time as opposed to the tight creases of cowhide.
The trims are excellent, with a heavyweight solid brass bit stretching across the front of each shoe, and a British ridgeway outsole and heel for standing on. While not as common as some other outsoles for handsewn footwear, the ridgeway is an excellent blend of comfort and traction, with a nice low profile that compliments the loafer silhouette well.
Fits true to Brannock size, available only in whole sizes. If you are between sizes, we recommend taking the closest size up (so an 8.5 Brannock would take a size 9) and then adding an insole or wearing thick socks.
- Horween "Color #8" Shell Cordovan horsehide
- Bit loafer design
- Ridgeway outsole & heel combo
- Brass bit
- Rolled edges
- Hand welted
- Custom last
- Made in Queens, New York
These are made on a custom last developed by Andrew.
Fits true to Brannock size, available only in whole sizes. If you are between sizes, we recommend taking the next size up (so an 8.5 Brannock would take a size 9) and then adding an insole or wearing thick socks.
- D-Width and average volume feet: