MotivMFG is headed by Samuel Wei, founder of Radiance Blue and the pioneer of the heritage market in China; and Daniel Gu, a third-generation tailor and designer. Together, they combine old-world tailoring (from various antique European manuals) with workwear production techniques. Constant research into garment production techniques around the world informs their design, with the goal of recreating, as opposed to just reproducing.
The Pleat Denim trousers combine several different early industrial manufacturing techniques - from the one piece fly, to the trapezoid belt loops, to the faux yoke darts and four pleat configuration. They're cut with a very comfortable and flattering high rise, a roomy but slimming top block (thanks to the pleats), and two fairly wide straight legs. A handsome intersection between tailoring and workwear, these are both functionally and stylistically versatile.
The fabric is really special, as this is Motiv's very latest "Winter denim", developed in collaboration with the very best narrow loom weavers in China. Motiv call this "Donegal" denim because of the presence of neps in the weft yarns, designed to evoke the look and feel of tweed. The reverse side of the fabric is given a molleton process after finishing to additionally soften it and add a bit of warmth. The end result is truly unique, with the look and drape of a denim but the softness and comfort of a flannel when worn.
In addition to being selvedge, the warp yarns of the fabric are sulfur-dyed, meaning that they'll fade over time, developing a handsome and personalized patina for each person that wears them. The dusty grey weft yarns will show through in high-wear areas, creating subtle but incredibly complex fades that truly will only get better with time. To account for the fabric's initial shrinkage and stiffness, Motiv have also given each garment a wash before shipping them out.
The trims are pretty great too, from the custom metal hardware to the selvedge details and woven pocket bags. To top it all off, the entire garment uses single-needle construction, a serious feat and quite the tailoring flex from the small team at Motiv.
Fits true to size. Wash cold and hang dry.
- 100% cotton
- Custom selvedge denim from China
- Tweedy neps throughout
- Molleton finish on fabric reverse
- Trapezoid belt loops
- Sulfur-dyed denim
- Woven pocket bags
- Three pocket fit
- High rise
- Wide straight leg
- Selvedge details
- True to size
- Wash cold and hang dry
- Custom labels
- Produced by MotivMFG in Beijing