Lot 1333 No.3 Waist Overalls - Indigo

Warehouse & Co came about in 1995, as the final members of the Osaka 5, the collective responsible for driving the vintage and selvedge denim boom of the 1990s. Founded by former Evisu and Full Count employees, the twin brothers Kenji and Kenichi Shiotani, Warehouse is known for their meticulous detail and considered construction.

The Lot 1333 No.3 Waist Overalls are based on a specific run of proto-jeans that were originally produced and sold between roughly 1910 and 1915. Waist Overalls as a style are what would eventually be developed-into the five pocket jeans we love today, and these feature a unique blend of the style's most notable features: a relaxed fit, no back yoke, a buckle-back, suspender buttons, exposed rivets, and no belt loops. The original inspiration for these is also notable for being developed and produced before the end of The Great War, before America's full industrial capacity had been achieved.

Unlike previous and future models, the No.3 Waist Overalls used tonal thread throughout, as opposed to the more standard orange, copper, or yellow stitching, and lacked any sort of decorative stitchwork or embellishments such as arcuates. Though they came before mass industrial production and standards, the original specifications for these was considered robust even for the time, and helped solidify these as a workwear garment.

Beyond that, very little information is available on this rare and obscure model of early 20th century work pants. The actual pair that Warehouse based these on came from the archives of the Neustadter Brothers, an extremely-influential but largely forgotten menswear/workwear manufacturer from San Francisco that operated between the 1850s and 1930s. We can tell you that they've got a pretty classic fit, with a high rise and roomy top block, full thighs, and "straight leg" that tapers very slightly but doesn't look like it does.

The fabric is completely custom, developed by Warehouse and produced in Japan and called "No.3 Selvedge". Made from 100% cotton, it's a rough and textured indigo denim with an irregular weave and a neppy, bumpy hand. Woven on vintage looms, it has a beautiful up-close texture right away — this will only get better and better with time, as the rich indigo dye will develop beautiful fades as a result of wear and washing. The completely raw fabric is quite stiff at first, but this denim will soften considerably as the jeans break-in to the wearer.

These run larger than their tag size, check out measurements before ordering. These are raw and unwashed, and expected to shrink to tag size after washing. Wash cold, hang dry.

• 100% cotton
• Custom "No.3" indigo selvedge denim from Japan
• High rise top block with no back yoke
• Relaxed straight leg fit
• Button fly
• Iron suspender buttons
• Buckle back with iron buckle
• Exposed copper rivet reinforcements
• Four pockets
• Selvedge outseam detail
• Woven waist tag
• True to size
• Shrink to fit
• Wash cold and hang dry
• Custom woven labels
• Made in Japan