The Campus Jacket is Mister Freedom's take on the oft-reproduced 1930s Cossack collar blouse. Their non-leather versions are particularly notable, as the pattern was originally designed to be made from leather, and needed significant tweaks and updates to come together correctly using denim instead. You may think switching from leather to woven fabric is a simple change, but it presents all sort of issues: leather doesn't have edges that unravel if left unfinished, nor does it shrink when wet like cotton, or stretch the same way. Thanks to their efforts, the folks at Mister Freedom can now produce leather and cloth versions of their Campus Jacket to the very highest quality.
Falling into the category of early 1900s Sportswear, which basically translates to "any clothing that isn't workwear or formalwear", the Campus jacket is cut with a rounded Cossack-style collar (cut from 14oz cotton corduroy), with two slash handwarmer pockets and an adjustable fit through the body. Being made from selvedge denim, it starts out stiff and crunchy before softening with wear and taking the shape of your body.
This time around, the Campus Jacket is made from Sugar Cane Japan's AWA-AI denim, a 13oz selvedge denim made from the proprietary 70% cotton / 30% sugar cane fibre blend developed by Toyo Enterprises. This low-tension-weave has a lot of character, with an irregular face texture featuring cotton neps, tonal variation, and a subtle hairiness on the outside. This is a raw and unwashed fabric that is cut large and intended to shrink down to tag size after the first wash.
The name Awa-Ai refers to the old name ("Awa") of the Tokushima Prefecture in Japan, and Ai-zome (indigo-dyed) fabrics. During the Edo and Meji periods in Japan, the region's primary industry was the production of natural indigo dyes, which were grown from plants, harvested, and processed in the region thanks to a favorable climate. The fabric for these jeans has been rope-dyed with a blend of synthetic indigo and traditional Awa-Ai indigo before being woven together on vintage looms, resulting in a deep, dark color that will fade slowly and evenly over time.
The construction is no joke, with a one-piece back and a fully finished clean interior (and no lining). The collar uses a handsome brown Japanese corduroy, milled from 100% cotton and weighing in at a respectable 14oz. The trims are serious too, with black tea core leather details, corozo wood Cats Eye buttons, and a custom woven rayon label.
Raw & Unsanforized Denim - These are cut large and intended to shrink to tag size after a wash. Wash cold and hang dry - for greater shrinkage, increase water temperature, for less shrinkage, decrease water temperature.
- Unsanforized - will shrink to tag size after washing
- 70% cotton / 30% sugar cane fibre
- 13oz selvedge denim from Japan
- Blend of synthetic and natural Awa-Ai indigo dyes
- Low tension weave with irregular texture
- Slow fading
- 14oz corduroy collar
- Black tea core leather trims
- Cossack style collar
- One piece back
- Clean internal construction with all finished seams
- Concealed selvedge details
- Corozo wood buttons
- Custom hardware
- Custom woven labels
- Fits true to size
- Designed and produced in California, USA