This is not your standard issue black double rider leather jacket. The hand overdyed leather is the star of the show, as it will fade and age from black to a lighter brown much faster than other black or tea-core leathers. This accelerated tea-core, combined with Y'2's precise and exacting construction has made for the most interesting double rider we've seen in a while, and we're excited to see how they age.
The HR-56 is based on vintage American double rider jackets from the early 20th century. It's cut in a stylized D-pocket configuration, with an acorn-shaped Blackberry 8700 pocket and a welted handwarmer pocket on the opposite hip - a 21st-century amount of storage. The back features a dropped western yoke and split paneling, as well as two brass buckles at the back sides of the hem that can be used to adjust the fit.
The leather is a mid-weight Japanese horsehide that's been hand overdyed black and will fade to lighter tones of brown in high wear areas very quickly. The leather started out as an undyed vegetable tanned leather (one of our favorites), but was then overdyed black before the panels were cut and sewn into the jacket you're reading about. The dyes applied by hand are much more unstable than other ways of turning leather black, like drum dyeing, aniline finishing or paying an old man to yell at it.
The vegetable tanned horsehide leather is 1.4mm thick and fairly supple from the get-go. Following the tanning process, each hide is hand dyed black individually, with the dye being applied over multiple hand brushings. The finished product is inconsistent by design, having all sorts of variation between fully black and dark brown. Over time, the black dye will fade in areas of high movement or abrasion, revealing the brown base and lighter tea core underneath.
Due to the hand-painted nature of the hides, each jacket will be different, with some panels appearing lighter or darker than others. Some jackets will be almost entirely black, while others may be almost completely brown, and more will still be a mix of the two. Even brand new, no two of these jackets are quite alike, and over time they will age even more uniquely with how they are worn.
The fit is pretty standard, running true to size, with an average (not slim) fit through the chest. The horsehide is fairly supple even before break in, and two massive gussets hidden beneath the back panels give an incredible range of movement with ease. The hardware is all brass, with tonal black buttons at the chest pocket and cuffs. The body is lined with a soft 100% cotton brushed olive flannel, while the sleeves are lined in a smooth and cool 100% nylon fabric.
Fits true to size. Do not wash, dry or dry clean.
- 1.4mm hand dyed vegetable tanned horsehide
- Black tea core leather
- 100% cotton body lining
- 100% nylon sleeve lining
- Button cuffs
- Four donut shank buttons
- Acorn shaped D-pocket
- Brass Universal zip
- Waldes ball chain zip
- Buckle size adjusters at sides
- Single internal chest pocket
- Western back yoke
- Double hidden gusset back
- Custom labels
- Fits true to size
- Made in Japan