1910s 9oz Death Valley Jacket - Dark Indigo
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Description
There's a lot to unpack in this jacket's name, which is fitting, given the highly unique and complex design of the garment itself. We'll start with the fabric this time, which Black Sign call 9oz — developed alongside and under the supervision of our mutual friends at Ooe Yofukuten, this fabric was designed to replicate samples of denim from the early 1900s, specifically at the time when synthetic indigo began replacing natural indigo in commercial production. Beyond that, it's got an extremely handsome and irregular low-tension weave, with subtle textural variation throughout.
The historical references don't stop at the color either, as this denim is based on pre-WWII weave specifications, when fabric was weighed differently than it is today. What would have been called 9oz in the early 20th century would "measure" at about 12.5oz today, which is exactly the case with this denim, as it's thicker and heavier than any contemporary fabric labeled at 9oz. Over time, this fabric will break in and fade from wear, washing, and the withering power of the sun's rays, especially if you're hanging around Death Valley, or anywhere with a high UV index.
Beyond the fabric, it's got some really interesting tailoring details and a pattern unlike any other jacket we can recall carrying. The base is familiar, bearing similarities to hunting jackets, pre-WWII chore coats, and coveralls with its relaxed torso, full-length body, and four front pockets, but it deviates from convention with the curved stitching around the collar & placket, and the extra large game pocket on the back. All in all, it's got a lot of utility packed into the design, with more pockets than you'll know what to do with and a body that's roomy enough to layer under.
The remaining details are a bit more subtle, opting for classic metal donut buttons, "copper" thread for contrast, and a mostly-covered placket with some reverse-stance buttons for extra stability. There's also an angled buttonhole on the front of the placket where the chain for a pocket watch may be anchored — this is a historical detail, and we've basically never seen anyone use it for this, but that's what its for.
Fits true to size with a relaxed body. Wash cold and hang dry.
- 100% cotton
- "9oz" denim from Japan
- Developed with help from Ooe Yofukuten
- Early 1900s reproduction fabric
- Relaxed fit
- Four large front pockets
- Hidden placket with reversed stabilizer button
- Classic collar
- Large buttoned "game pocket" in the back
- Curved panel design
- Relaxed torso
- Button cuffs
- Metal donut buttons
- Custom woven labels
- Rinsed
- Wash cold and hang dry
- True to size
- Made in Japan
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1910s 9oz Death Valley Jacket - Dark Indigo
Size Guide
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