Jodhpur Boot - Black Calfskin - CN Wide Last
Product details
Clinch is made by BRASS, one of the first high-end shoe repair shops to open in Japan, owned and operated by Minoru Matsuura. They quickly evolved from shoe repair; to re-lasting to their custom lasts; to building incredible footwear around their custom lasts.
These lasts are where the magic is. Most modern lasts are optimized for mass-production. Wider, straighter, easier to pump through a production line, and easier to fit every single person into. Clinch's lasts start narrow, with a tight fit and a lot of contours to them, much like the lasts of the early 20th century.
Clinch's jodhpur boot is an elegant update to a traditional jodhpur, with some inspiration taken from their engineer boots. The usual low heel has been replaced with a full logger heel, and the vamp front features a mechanical crease line through the center, (an aesthetic detail developed as a result of the lasting process) similar to certain vintage engineer boots (as well as Clinch's own).
They're constructed with a 270 degree flat welt featuring a single row of tonal stitching, complimenting the sleek look and low profile of the last. Clinch's welting process is highly precise, utilizing "old-world" manufacturing processes in tandem with their custom lasts & patterns. First, the insole is soaked, then molded to the bottom of the last. From there, the boot is build around that insole. Every step of the welting process is done by hand, except for the final sewing of the outsoles, a task best done by machine.
Finished with a gentle shine, the French calfskin leather is immediately appealing, with a full black dye that's struck through the entire hide for lasting color, unlike tea core leathers. Calfskin ages differently to both other cow and horse leathers, forming small, tight creases in clusters rather than larger rolls or the more thick creasing of mature cowhide.
The calfskin uppers are mostly wholecut, masterfully sewn together from just three panels with extremely precise lines of high-density stitching. Across the back, the two halves of the belt closure cross one another in an X shape, before looping around and meeting on the outside of the shaft.
Even the most minor details are considered - from the custom, nickel-coated solid brass buckles, to the woven internal labels, to the full leather lining and leather insole. They stand on reproduced O'Sullivan heels, made exclusively for Clinch and to their specifications. The thick yet pliable leather outsole features a grip topy, applied for traction and durability, then finished with solid brass nails from Japan.
Built on the CN WIDE Last. See sizing tab for advice on fit.
- Black calfskin leather from France
- Full leather lining
- Leather insole
- 270 degree flat welt
- Hand-sewn welted construction
- Ankle height
- Double half-belt closure
- Solid brass buckle from Japan
- Nails from Japan
- Welting from Japan
- O'Sullivan's reproduction heels
- Leather soles with grip topy
- CN WIDE last
- Resoleable and rebuildable
- Unstructured toebox
- Hand-made in Tokyo
If you have any questions about sizing, or are unsure of your size, please contact us before ordering.
Our sizing recommendations
CN WIDE Last
- Narrow and low volume feet:
- 0.5 size smaller than Brannock for a snug fit
- Same size as Brannock for a more relaxed fit (you may need to use insoles, thick socks, or both)
- D-Width and average volume feet:
- 0.5 size smaller than Brannock for a snug fit
- Same size as Brannock for a more relaxed fit (you may need to use insoles, thick socks, or both)
- E width feet with average volume:
- Same size as Brannock for a snug fit
- 0.5 size larger than Brannock for a more relaxed fit
We suggest the Protalus T-75 or Protalus M-75 insoles and Darn Tough Full Cushion Socks.
Shipping
Returns
Jodhpur Boot - Black Calfskin - CN Wide Last
Product details
Clinch is made by BRASS, one of the first high-end shoe repair shops to open in Japan, owned and operated by Minoru Matsuura. They quickly evolved from shoe repair; to re-lasting to their custom lasts; to building incredible footwear around their custom lasts.
These lasts are where the magic is. Most modern lasts are optimized for mass-production. Wider, straighter, easier to pump through a production line, and easier to fit every single person into. Clinch's lasts start narrow, with a tight fit and a lot of contours to them, much like the lasts of the early 20th century.
Clinch's jodhpur boot is an elegant update to a traditional jodhpur, with some inspiration taken from their engineer boots. The usual low heel has been replaced with a full logger heel, and the vamp front features a mechanical crease line through the center, (an aesthetic detail developed as a result of the lasting process) similar to certain vintage engineer boots (as well as Clinch's own).
They're constructed with a 270 degree flat welt featuring a single row of tonal stitching, complimenting the sleek look and low profile of the last. Clinch's welting process is highly precise, utilizing "old-world" manufacturing processes in tandem with their custom lasts & patterns. First, the insole is soaked, then molded to the bottom of the last. From there, the boot is build around that insole. Every step of the welting process is done by hand, except for the final sewing of the outsoles, a task best done by machine.
Finished with a gentle shine, the French calfskin leather is immediately appealing, with a full black dye that's struck through the entire hide for lasting color, unlike tea core leathers. Calfskin ages differently to both other cow and horse leathers, forming small, tight creases in clusters rather than larger rolls or the more thick creasing of mature cowhide.
The calfskin uppers are mostly wholecut, masterfully sewn together from just three panels with extremely precise lines of high-density stitching. Across the back, the two halves of the belt closure cross one another in an X shape, before looping around and meeting on the outside of the shaft.
Even the most minor details are considered - from the custom, nickel-coated solid brass buckles, to the woven internal labels, to the full leather lining and leather insole. They stand on reproduced O'Sullivan heels, made exclusively for Clinch and to their specifications. The thick yet pliable leather outsole features a grip topy, applied for traction and durability, then finished with solid brass nails from Japan.
Built on the CN WIDE Last. See sizing tab for advice on fit.
- Black calfskin leather from France
- Full leather lining
- Leather insole
- 270 degree flat welt
- Hand-sewn welted construction
- Ankle height
- Double half-belt closure
- Solid brass buckle from Japan
- Nails from Japan
- Welting from Japan
- O'Sullivan's reproduction heels
- Leather soles with grip topy
- CN WIDE last
- Resoleable and rebuildable
- Unstructured toebox
- Hand-made in Tokyo
If you have any questions about sizing, or are unsure of your size, please contact us before ordering.
Our sizing recommendations
CN WIDE Last
- Narrow and low volume feet:
- 0.5 size smaller than Brannock for a snug fit
- Same size as Brannock for a more relaxed fit (you may need to use insoles, thick socks, or both)
- D-Width and average volume feet:
- 0.5 size smaller than Brannock for a snug fit
- Same size as Brannock for a more relaxed fit (you may need to use insoles, thick socks, or both)
- E width feet with average volume:
- Same size as Brannock for a snug fit
- 0.5 size larger than Brannock for a more relaxed fit
We suggest the Protalus T-75 or Protalus M-75 insoles and Darn Tough Full Cushion Socks.
Shipping
Returns