MotivMFG is headed by Samuel Wei, founder of Radiance Blue and the pioneer of the heritage market in China; and Daniel Gu, a third-generation tailor and designer. Together, they combine old-world tailoring (from various antique European manuals) with workwear production techniques. Constant research into garment production techniques around the world informs their design, with the goal of recreating, as opposed to just reproducing.

The Pleat Denim trousers combine several different early industrial manufacturing techniques - from the one piece fly, to the trapezoid belt loops, to the faux yoke darts and four pleat configuration. They're cut with a very comfortable and flattering high rise, a roomy but slimming top block (thanks to the pleats), and two fairly wide straight legs. A handsome intersection between tailoring and workwear, these are both functionally and stylistically versatile.

The fabric is really excellent, being an indigo finish of Motiv's latest seasonal "Summer denim", developed in collaboration with the very best narrow loom weavers in China. Featuring a blend of cotton/linen and pure linen yarns woven into a medium-weight selvedge, it's surprisingly soft and comfortable, with a less stiff drape than even well worn cotton jeans.

The linen/cotton combo does than just drape well, as the mix highlights the strengths of both materials - sturdy and comfortable like cotton, while also airy and cool like linen. It breathes well when temperatures rise, and will develop attractive fading over time as the indigo wears away, aging uniquely for each wearer. Clocking in at a respectable medium weight, this selvedge fabric comes in a one-wash finish that leaves it soft and broken-in from the moment you put it on.

The trims are pretty great too, from the custom metal hardware to the selvedge details and woven pocket bags. To top it all off, the entire garment uses single-needle construction, a serious feat and quite the tailoring flex from the small team at Motiv.

Fits true to size. Wash cold and hang dry.

• 50% cotton / 50% linen
• Medium weight indigo selvedge denim
• Indigo dyed
• Trapezoid belt loops
• Woven pocket bags
  
• Three pocket fit
  
• High rise
• Wide straight leg
• Rinsed
• Selvedge details
  
• True to size
• Wash cold and hang dry
• Custom labels
• Produced by MotivMFG in Beijing