Clinch is made by BRASS, one of the first high-end shoe repair shops to open in Japan, owned and operated by Minoru Matsuura. They quickly evolved from shoe repair; to re-lasting to their custom lasts; to building incredible footwear around their custom lasts.
These lasts are where the magic is. Most modern lasts are optimized for mass-production. Wider, straighter, easier to pump through a production line, and easier to fit every single person into. Clinch's lasts start narrow, with a tight fit and a lot of contours to them, much like the lasts of the early 20th century.
Clinch's jodhpur boot is an elegant update to a traditional jodhpur, with some inspiration taken from their engineer boots. The usual low heel has been replaced with a full logger heel, and the vamp front features a mechanical crease line through the center, (an aesthetic detail developed as a result of the lasting process) similar to certain vintage engineer boots (as well as Clinch's own).
They're constructed with a 270 degree flat welt featuring a single row of tonal stitching, complimenting the sleek look and low profile of the last. Clinch's welting process is highly precise, utilizing "old-world" manufacturing processes in tandem with their custom lasts & patterns. First, the insole is soaked, then molded to the bottom of the last. From there, the boot is build around that insole. Every step of the welting process is done by hand, except for the final sewing of the outsoles, a task best done by machine.
The leather on these boots is horsebutt from Europe, hand-selected by Minoru himself for the right qualities of density and grain. This part is exceedingly important, as there is tremendous variation in quality in the supply of horsebutt with less than 50% of the stock being suitable for Clinch boots.
This horsebutt still contains the portion of membrane usually cut out to produce shell cordovan. There is a high density of fibers in this particular cut of hide, which leads to rolls in the area of the boot that flex, rather than creases. No other boot out there will break in like these. Have a look at the worn shots to see how these boots age.
The uppers are mostly wholecut, masterfully sewn together from just three panels with extremely precise lines of high-density stitching. Across the back, the two halves of the belt closure cross one another in an X shape, before looping around and meeting on the outside of the shaft.
Even the most minor details are considered - from the custom, nickel-coated solid brass buckles, to the woven internal labels, to the full leather lining and leather insole. They stand on reproduced O'Sullivan heels, made exclusively for Clinch and to their specifications. The thick yet pliable leather outsole features a grip topy, applied for traction and durability, then finished with solid brass nails from Japan.
For a more comprehensive look into Clinch as a brand, you can also read this detailed article by our friends at Stitchdown.
Built on the CN Last. See sizing tab for advice on fit.
- Black overdyed horsebutt leather
- Tea core
- Full leather lining
- Leather insole
- 270 degree flat welt
- Hand-sewn welted construction
- Ankle height
- Double half-belt closure
- Solid brass buckle from Japan
- Nails from Japan
- Welting from Japan
- O'Sullivan's reproduction heels
- Leather soles with grip topy
- CN last
- Resoleable and rebuildable
- Unstructured toebox
- Hand-made in Tokyo