Clinch Boots

Gary Boots - Black Overdyed Horsebutt - CN-S Last


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Clinch is made by BRASS, one of the first high-end shoe repair shops to open in Japan, owned and operated by Minoru Matsuura. They quickly evolved from shoe repair; to re-lasting on their own custom lasts; to developing and producing new footwear in-house. Each piece is masterfully built in a Tokyo basement, by just a handful of expert craftspeople.

Made from an exceptionally high quality European horsebutt, each hide is hand-selected by Minoru himself for the right qualities of density and grain before cutting. This part is exceedingly important, as there can be tremendous variation of quality in the supply of horsebutt leather, with less than 50% of the stock being suitable for Clinch boots.

This horsebutt still contains the portion of membrane usually cut out to produce shell cordovan. There is a high density of fibers in this particular cut of hide, which leads to rolls in the area of the boot that flex, rather than the creases more common in cowhide. The leather is finished with a black overdye, leaving a rich, shiny finish on top of the warm brown tea core. This will gradually wear down and scuff off over time, creating a wholly unique and remarkably handsome patina.

There are 7 eyelets, 5 speedhooks, and a final set of eyelets to lock everything in place on these boots, a fitting amount for the lace-to-toe pattern. They sit on an avocado green reproduction O'Sullivan's cork outsole with a channeled leather sole and matching heel. The channeling is done by hand, and prevents premature wear on the stitching that holds the sole to the welt.

Constructed with a 270 degree flat welt, these can be re-soled or rebuilt by a trusted cobbler when the time comes. The uppers feature some of the most precise and exacting stitchwork of any footwear we've encountered, with multiple double rows of extremely high SPI (stitches per inch) sewing holding everything together. This is all done start to finish in-house, on vintage shoemaking equipment that Clinch maintain themselves.

For a really deep dive into the brand, check out this detailed article on Stitchdown.

  • Black overdyed Horsebutt leather
  • Hand-sewn welted construction
  • 7 eyelets, 5 speedhooks, and one final set of eyelets
  • Tonal custom brass hardware from Japan
  • Nails from Japan
  • Welting from Japan
  • O'Sullivans Cork Sole and Heel
  • CN-S last
  • Resoleable and rebuildable
  • Unstructured toebox
  • Hand-made in Tokyo

We reference Brannock sizing for our footwear. The Brannock Device is the standard foot measuring tool for the world's footwear industry. Most better quality footwear stores will have one.

If you have any questions about sizing, or are unsure of your size, please contact us before ordering.

Built on the CN-S Last
The CN-S last fits very snugly from the waist to heel, with a fairly low instep. This highly specialized last can be made to fit comfortably in multiple sizes depending on the wearer's foot and preference.
  • Narrow and low volume feet:
    • 0.5 size smaller thanBrannock for a snug fit
    • Same size as Brannock for a more relaxed fit (you may need to use insoles, thick socks, or both)
  • D-Width and average volume feet:
    • 0.5 size smaller than Brannock for a snug fit
    • Same size as Brannock for a more relaxed fit (you may need to use insoles, thick socks, or both)
  • E & EE-Width and high volume feet:
    • We do not suggest the CN-S Last. You are going down a road of torturous pain and existential angst. Please turn around.

Our Oakland and Santa Fe stores are open for cubside pickup. View our curbside pickup info.

Due to USPS service delays, we are shipping most USA orders via UPS Ground until further notice. If you prefer to have your order shipped with USPS, please contact us and we will do our best to accommodate you.

USA Orders

Bandanas, Patches, T-Shirts, Socks, & Hats - $5 via USPS First Class Mail
Curbside pickup: Free
Orders $300 and over - Free shipping via UPS Ground
Orders under $300 - $12 shipping via UPS Ground
Expedited Shipping (1 - 2 business days) via UPS - $40

International Orders

Canada Shipping - Orders under $400
USPS First Class (10 - 15 business days)  - $18
USPS Priority Mail (5 - 10 business days) - $35
DHL Express (2-3 business days) - $55

Canada Shipping - Orders over $400
DHL Express (1-3 business days) - $50

Rest of World Shipping
DHL Express (2-4 business days) - $55

We want you to be comfortable shopping with us online without being able to touch the product. Before you purchase, please check the size charts we provide against your favorite garments.

  • Exchanges or returns for store credit will be accepted on full-price items within 14 days of delivery (as verified by courier)
  • Items sold on sale or discount are final sale, no returns or exchanges.
  • Items must be in original condition with all tags attached.
  • Items that have been washed, hemmed, altered, excessively worn, set aflame or touched by a private equity firm cannot be returned.
  • All return and exchange shipping costs are your responsibility
  • We will process all returns within 3 business days of receipt
  • Our team will acknowledge receipt and action take with your return
  • Full terms and conditions are here.
  • If you have questions at any time you can reach us at or use our contact form, or phone us at 510-373-9696.