Service Shoe - Black Calf - MIL-WIDE Last

Service Shoe - Black Calf - MIL-WIDE Last

Regular price $1,350
Low stock - Order soon!

Clinch is made by BRASS, one of the first high-end shoe repair shops to open in Japan, owned and operated by Minoru Matsuura. They quickly evolved from shoe repair; to re-lasting to their custom lasts; to building incredible footwear around their custom lasts.

These lasts are where the magic is. Most modern lasts are optimized for mass-production. Wider, straighter, easier to pump through a production line, and easier to fit every single person into. Clinch's lasts start narrow, with a tight fit and a lot of contours to them, much like the lasts of the early 20th century.

The Service Shoe is Clinch's interpretation of the iconic USN Low Quart Shoe or Officer's Shoe, rendered in their exceptional French calfskin leather. It's an extremely versatile and near timeless style, pairing well with casual and formal outfits - it's rarely the star, but never detracts from a look thanks to the sleek, classic design. Available in standard (MIL Last) and wide (MIL-WIDE Last) fittings, there's a comfortable fit for just about anyone.

They're constructed with a 270 degree flat welt featuring a single row of tonal stitching, complimenting the sleek look and low profile of the last. Clinch's welting process is highly precise, utilizing "old-world" manufacturing processes in tandem with their custom lasts & patterns. First, the insole is soaked, then molded to the bottom of the last. From there, the boot is build around that insole. Every step of the welting process is done by hand, except for the final sewing of the outsoles, a task best done by machine.

Finished with a gentle shine, the French calfskin leather is immediately appealing, with a full black dye that's struck through the entire hide for lasting color, unlike tea core leathers. Calfskin ages differently to both other cow and horse leathers, forming small, tight creases in clusters rather than larger rolls or the more thick creasing of mature cowhide.

Even the most minor details are considered - from the blind eyelets, to the meticulous stitchwork, to the t-shaped backstay. They stand on reproduced O'Sullivan heels, made exclusively for Clinch and to their specifications. The thick yet pliable leather outsole features a grip topy, applied for traction and durability, then finished with solid brass nails from Japan.

For a more comprehensive look into Clinch as a brand, you can also read this detailed article by our friends at Stitchdown.

Built on the MIL-WIDE Last. See sizing tab for advice on fit.

  • Black French calf leather
  • Full leather lining
  • Leather insole
  • 270 degree flat welt
  • Hand-sewn welted construction
  • T-shaped backstay
  • Blind eyelets
  • Nails from Japan
  • Welting from Japan
  • O'Sullivan's reproduction heels
  • Leather soles with grip topy
  • MIL-WIDE Last
  • Resoleable and rebuildable
  • Unstructured toebox
  • Hand-made in Tokyo

Due to USPS service delays, we are shipping most USA orders via UPS Ground until further notice. If you prefer to have your order shipped with USPS, please contact us and we will do our best to accommodate you.


  • Bandanas, Patches, T-Shirts, Socks, & Hats - $5 via USPS First Class Mail
  • Curbside pickup: Free
  • Orders $300 and over - Free shipping via UPS Ground
  • Orders under $300 - $12 shipping via UPS Ground
  • Expedited Shipping (1 - 2 business days) via UPS - $40


Canada Shipping - Orders under $400

  • USPS First Class (10 - 15 business days)  - $18
  • USPS Priority Mail (5 - 10 business days) - $35
  • DHL Express (2-3 business days) - $55

Canada Shipping - Orders over $400
DHL Express (1-3 business days) - $50

Rest of World Shipping
DHL Express (2-4 business days) - $55

We want you to be comfortable shopping with us online without being able to touch the product.

  • Before you purchase, please check the size charts we provide against your favorite garments.
  • Exchanges or returns for store credit will be accepted on full-price items within 14 days of delivery (as verified by courier)
  • Items sold on sale or discount are final sale, no returns or exchanges.
  • Items must be in original condition with all tags attached.
  • Items that have been washed, hemmed, altered, or excessively worn cannot be returned.
  • All return and exchange shipping costs are your responsibility
  • We will process all returns within 3 business days of receipt
  • Our team will acknowledge receipt and action take with your return
  • Full terms and conditions are here.
  • If you have questions at any time you can reach us at or use our contact form, or phone us at 510-373-9696.


For customers in the USA, please go to our returns portal at for any returns excluding leather jackets and footwear. There is no need to contact us directly once you initiate a return via the portal.

If you need to return or exchange a leather jacket or footwear, please e-mail Please include your order number and tell us if you'd like to make an exchange or return for store credit.

For international returns, e-mail Please include your order number and tell us if you'd like to make an exchange or return for store credit.

Size Guide

If you have any questions about sizing, or are unsure of your size, please contact us before ordering.

Built on the MIL-WIDE Last

  • Narrow and low volume feet:
    • Not advised - try the standard MIL Last
  • D-Width and average volume feet:
    • 0.5 size smaller than Brannock
  • E-Width and high volume feet:
    • Same size as Brannock

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