Monkey Boots - Black Ops Shinki Shell Cordovan
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Pickup available at S&S West Berkeley
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Description
Shell cordovan leather is a very stiff and fairly inflexible leather known for developing handsome rolls instead of the usual creases that wear into other leathers. The break-in period for shell cordovan footwear can be much more severe than with other boots or shoes in certain cases, and may take a considerable amount of time or wear. Caveat emptor.
These are John Lofgren's take on the Eastern European (primarily Czech) surplus boots that saw popularity among civilian markets in the 80s. The actual origin of the name "Monkey Boot" is lost to history, but the prevalent opinion is that the tractor-tire-tread soles of the Czech boots offered enough grip to climb like a monkey.
They're made from an all-black shell cordovan leather from the Shinki Tannery in Japan. Shell cordovan is a very specific cut and treatment of horsebutt leather, utilizing a very small (and "shell-shaped") section of the lower rump. The tanning and finishing processes are also highly specialized, producing a stiff, glossy horsehide leather that's also notoriously difficult to make and use.
The leather also ages very uniquely — while other cowhide and horsehide leathers will crease, shell cordovan curves and rolls, developing a beautiful silhouette as it wears in. As mentioned above, the stiffness and lack of stretch inherent to shell cordovan also contribute to a significant break-in period, and a tight fit out of the box.
As with all of John Lofgren's boots, these were developed slowly and carefully from last to leather. Featuring a rolled edge at the ankle, tonal brass hardware, black edge stain, and Vibram's made in the USA 700 sole + heel combination, they're absolutely built to last, and will only get better with time.
Due to the stiffness of the leather, we recommend selecting 0.5 size down from your usual Brannock measurement, as opposed to the usual full 1 size down for Lofgren Monkey boots.
- Built on the John Lofgren 140 Last
- Black shell cordovan leather from Shinki Tannery in Japan
- Exclusive John Lofgren last
- Tonal brass hardware
- 10 eyelets
- Lace to toe configuration
- Flat waxed cotton laces
- Made in USA Vibram 700 sole + 700 heel combination
- Leather midsole
- Black edge stain
- 360 degree storm welt construction
- Fully resoleable and rebuildable
- Take 0.5 size smaller than Brannock size
- Limited run
- Made in Japan
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Monkey Boots - Black Ops Shinki Shell Cordovan
Size Guide
Built on the John Lofgren 140 Last
Need help with sizing? Contact us.
- Narrow and low volume feet:
- 0.5 size smaller than Brannock
- D-Width and average volume feet:
- 0.5 size smaller than Brannock
- E & EE-Width and high volume feet:
- 0.5 size smaller than Brannock
Curious as to how we size our garments? Check out how we measure.