MotivMFG is headed by Samuel Wei, founder of Radiance Blue and the pioneer of the heritage market in China; and Daniel Gu, a third-generation tailor and designer. Together, they combine old-world tailoring (from various antique European manuals) with workwear production techniques. Constant research into garment production techniques from around the world inform their designs, with the goal of recreating, as opposed to just reproducing.

The Mandarin Coat is a seriously heavy duty raglan coat, with a generous fit and a convertible hood/stand collar. The hood can be worn closed as a mask as well, emulating the hood of US military CWU-8P jackets, and the front secures shut with heavy tonal buttons in a double-breasted stance for additional resistance to the elements. Cut with a subtle A-line silhouette, the back features two large vents above the hem for better drape and movement, given that this is a full length coat.

It’s made from Lovat Mill’s performance double overcoating fabric, a 100% wool textile that is produced with Lovat’s hallmark “weft back” construction, which allows for two completely different fabric weave characteristics to be combined into a single cloth. The charcoal fabric used here combines robust blended Cheviot and Kempy yarns for the warp, with a shetland yarn weft — resulting in a highly textured and durable heavyweight fabric with a structured feel and surprisingly soft hand.

The front of the jacket features two exceptionally roomy welted pockets with flap closures, with another button pocket on the inside for that extra precious cargo you want close to your heart. The body is lined with a cotton twill for additional insulation and to add a bit of extra heft to the drape, and all the internal seams feature a clean finish.

Being so heavy, this fabric is highly wind and water resistant, holding up exceptionally well to all sorts of inclement weather. Being made entirely of wool, it's also quick drying, with remarkable insulation and a fantastic drape.

Fits true to size. Dry clean or spot clean only.

• 100% wool
• Performance double overcoating fabric from Lovat Mills
• Highly textured heavyweight body
• 100% cotton trims
• Raglan sleeves
• Leather belt cuffs
• Double-breasted placket
• Tonal buttons
• Mandarin collar
• Removable hood with mask closure
• Two external pockets
• Single interior chest pocket
• Hood has face covering
• Two rear vents
• Full length
• True to size
• Custom labels
• Spot clean or dry clean only
• Produced by MotivMFG in Beijing