One of my regrets from the FW14 season was not picking up an Indigofera Norris Shirt – chiefly because several of my coworkers had already done so and I didn’t want it to look like we had some kind of uniform going on. Thankfully, the Norris is back for SS16 so I may yet indulge myself.
Made in Portugal, using a heavyweight Japanese selvedge flannel, the dark blue threads in this shirt have been indigo dyed – meaning that, over time, they will slowly fade in a similar fashion to denim. The chest features twin flap pockets with button closures and are, like the yoke, bias-cut.
At first glance, the fabric appears to be striped but a closer inspection reveals that there’s actually a very subtle horizontal pattern, producing a check that will, as the aforementioned fading occurs, become more apparent.
The tightly-woven fabric has a heavy, yet soft handfeel and pictures truly don’t do the depth of the blue color justice. Fit-wise, the Norris is what I would describe as a ‘regular fit’ – so no need to size up in this one.
- 100% cotton
- Heavyweight 3x1 Japanese selvedge flannel fabric
- Yarn-dyed indigo threads
- Regular fit
- Twin button-closure flap pockets on chest
- Bias-cut pockets and yoke
- Cold washin’ & no tumblin’
- Made in Portugal
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Indigofera is the latin name for the genus of plants that includes everyone’s favorite clothing dye. It is also the name that seemed most natural for Mats and Johan when deciding what to call their fledgling clothing company back in 2007.
Based in Stockholm, Sweden, Indigofera specialize in - as you might expect – denim, but have also become widely known for their shirts and wool blankets. Working closely with both European and Japanese mills, they focus first on fabrics, before evn beginning to map out the cutting and sewing of a garment. This focus on textiles goes as far as having proprietary denims and flannels woven specifically for Indigofera.
Aesthetically, Indigofera falls somewhere between traditional workwear and a look that’s more reminiscent of the appropriation of that workwear by bikers and hot-rodders during the 50s and 60s, albeit with a more modern, tailored fit.
Indigofera themselves are proud of the fact that their look forges it’s own path, rather than looking around to the rest of the fashion world for direction; co-founder, and former commercial director of Levi’s Vintage, Mats Andersson is on record as saying that ‘Indigofera is not a brand that you have to doubt if you’re cool enough to wear it’.
A good example of this practical approach to both style and construction can be found by simply looking at the hem of any pair of Indigofera jeans. Whereas the accepted wisdom amongst denim purists is that chainstitched hems are more ‘authentic’ and, therefore, more desirable, Indigofera bucks this trend by using a simple running stitch to hem all of their jeans. Why? Because it’s a stronger stitch and less prone to unravelling.