AE McAteer

Horse Bit Loafer - Color 8 Shell Cordovan


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From his quiet workshop in Queens, New York, Andrew McAteer produces exceptional leather goods by hand, the old way. A 5th-generation New Yorker, Andrew has always had an appreciate for traditional craftsmanship, having worked as a carpenter and furniture maker before turning to leatherwork.

Everything is made slowly, by one person (Andrew). His lasts are custom developed, hand-whittled to shape by Andrew - with each subsequent pair of footwear being hand-lasted to his custom fittings. Plus, like any good pair of shoes, these can be fully rebuilt by a trusted and capable cobbler whenever the soles wear down.

The Horse Bit Loafer is a excellent reimagining of the iconic runway style, with the McAteer edition being made from premium shell cordovan and heavyweight brass bits. Shockingly versatile, they can be easily dressed up with more formal attire, but look no less handsome when paired with denim or more casual bottoms thanks to the visual weight of the bit and hand welt.

These are made from Horween's famous Color 8 Shell Cordovan leather, one of the most handsome and iconic leathers to come from the Chicago tannery. With a rich red-brown coloration, the uppers feature a pronounced pull-up effect, where areas under tension will appear lighter and relaxed areas will appear darker, as well as a gentle shine. The inside of the leather is undyed, so scuffs past the surface will reveal the natural core beneath.

Shell cordovan is cut from a very specific membrane of the horsebutt, before being subjected to specialized tanning and finishing procedures. The unique grain texture of this shell-shaped wedge of the hide (hence the name "shell") produces spectacular leather goods, as the leather forms gentle sloping rolls over time as opposed to the tight creases of cowhide.

The trims are excellent, with a heavyweight solid brass bit stretching across the front of each shoe, and a British ridgeway outsole and heel for standing on. While not as common as some other outsoles for handsewn footwear, the ridgeway is an excellent blend of comfort and traction, with a nice low profile that compliments the loafer silhouette well.

Fits true to Brannock size, available only in whole sizes. If you are between sizes, we recommend taking the closest size up (so an 8.5 Brannock would take a size 9) and then adding an insole or wearing thick socks.

  • Horween "Color #8" Shell Cordovan horsehide
  • Bit loafer design
  • Ridgeway outsole & heel combo
  • Unlined
  • Brass bit
  • Rolled edges
  • Hand-lasted
  • Hand welted
  • Custom last
  • Made in Queens, New York

We reference Brannock sizing for our footwear. The Brannock Device is the standard foot measuring tool for the world's footwear industry. Most better quality footwear stores will have one.

These are made on a custom last developed by Andrew.

Fits true to Brannock size, available only in whole sizes. If you are between sizes, we recommend taking the next size up (so an 8.5 Brannock would take a size 9) and then adding an insole or wearing thick socks.

    • D-Width and average volume feet:
      • True to Brannock Size

      Our Oakland and Santa Fe stores are open for cubside pickup. View our curbside pickup info.

      Due to USPS service delays, we are shipping most USA orders via UPS Ground until further notice. If you prefer to have your order shipped with USPS, please contact us and we will do our best to accommodate you.

      USA Orders

      Bandanas, Patches, T-Shirts, Socks, & Hats - $5 via USPS First Class Mail
      Curbside pickup: Free
      Orders $300 and over - Free shipping via UPS Ground
      Orders under $300 - $12 shipping via UPS Ground
      Expedited Shipping (1 - 2 business days) via UPS - $40

      International Orders

      Canada Shipping - Orders under $400
      USPS First Class (10 - 15 business days)  - $18
      USPS Priority Mail (5 - 10 business days) - $35
      DHL Express (2-3 business days) - $55

      Canada Shipping - Orders over $400
      DHL Express (1-3 business days) - $50

      Rest of World Shipping
      DHL Express (2-4 business days) - $55

      We want you to be comfortable shopping with us online without being able to touch the product. Before you purchase, please check the size charts we provide against your favorite garments.

      • Exchanges or returns for store credit will be accepted on full-price items within 14 days of delivery (as verified by courier)
      • Items sold on sale or discount are final sale, no returns or exchanges.
      • Items must be in original condition with all tags attached.
      • Items that have been washed, hemmed, altered, excessively worn, set aflame or touched by a private equity firm cannot be returned.
      • All return and exchange shipping costs are your responsibility
      • We will process all returns within 3 business days of receipt
      • Our team will acknowledge receipt and action take with your return
      • Full terms and conditions are here.
      • If you have questions at any time you can reach us at or use our contact form, or phone us at 510-373-9696.