John Lofgren Made-to-Order Trunk show - Spring 2022

We're hosting another John Lofgren Made-To-Order Trunk Show at S&S NYC and S&S Oakland, where you can design the John Lofgren boot of your dreams. Choose from an array of leathers, outsoles, eyelets, stitching colors and more. We can also make custom size boots not normally offered (narrow or extra wide widths).

John Lofgren and Tomomi Kubota will be at our NYC store event to help you design your dream pair of boots. You can also discuss vintage Vespa scooters, living in Japan, and the mysteries of raisin farming with John Lofgren.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

  • Delivery is estimated between September and December 2022
  • All MTO boots are final sale and cannot be returned or exchanged
  • Non-stock sizes (5B - 13EE) are available for an extra $100

JOHN LOFGREN MTO BOOT OPTIONS

We've created this guide to help your decision-making process in building your pair of John Lofgren MTO boots.

If you're not sure about what the best option to choose is - please reach out to us and we'll be happy to assist.

Please note - all colors are approximate, and these leathers can change in appearance, color and tone when made into boots. Leather is also a non-uniform material and there will be variances.

If you have any specific questions about how a particular leather will look, please contact us.

THE OMAKASE OPTION

Not sure what to choose?
Too many damn options?
Want us to shutup and do the work for you?

Then you're in luck. Choose the Omakase option, and without using a random number generator of any kind, we'll design a great pair of MTO boots for you.

We'll use our combined experience of over 250 years of wearing shoes. We may even argue with each other about what to do (this will certainly happen).

Omakase is a get what you get option - we will not entertain any complaints, whinging or huffy-puffy-ness.

You roll the dice, and we manipulate them to create our own boot reality, just for you.

GALLERY OF GOOD IDEAS

ENGINEER BOOTS
TIMBER CXL + BLACK CXL

This is a classy, slightly understated way to do a two-tone engineer boot.

With a Timber CXL leather shaft and Black CXL vamp, straps, heel counter and backstay - this boot will patina beautifully over time.

Full Build Specs

  • Vamp Leather: Black CXL
  • Heel Counter Leather: Black CXL
  • Backstay Leather:Black CXL
  • Straps Leather: Black CXL
  • Shaft Leather: Timber CXL
  • Buckles: Brass
  • Storm Welt + Edge Stain: Brown
  • Upper Stitching: Tonal
  • Outsole Stitching: Natural

 


ENGINEER BOOTS
OLIVE CXL + NATURAL CXL ROUGHOUT

We made these boots for a client that has over a dozen pairs of engineer boots.

He chose a Natural CXL Roughout shaft, which keeps your pant hem from riding up the boot.

Full Build Specs

  • Vamp Leather: Dark Olive CXL
  • Heel Counter Leather: Dark Olive CXL
  • Backstay Leather:Dark Olive CXL
  • Straps Leather: Dark Olive CXL
  • Shaft Leather: Natural CXL Roughout
  • Buckles: Brass
  • Storm Welt + Edge Stain:Champagne
  • Upper Stitching: Tonal
  • Outsole Stitching: Natural

ENGINEER BOOTS
NATURAL CXL +
NATURAL CXL ROUGHOUT

This is one of our favorite MTOs because of how subtle it is.

Natural CXL Roughout makes for a great leather in an engineer boot - it darkens significantly with a lot of wear (scroll through the photos to see what this leather looks like after six years of wear), and the roughout shaft will keep your pants from sliding up.

The contrast of the smooth out Natural CXL backstay and straps really ties it all together - it's one of those subtle details that matters.

This build would also look great with off white upper stitching.


Full Build Specs

  • Vamp Leather: Natural CXL Roughout
  • Heel Counter Leather: Natural CXL Roughout
  • Backstay Leather:Natural CXL
  • Straps Leather: Natural CXL
  • Shaft Leather: Natural CXL Roughout
  • Buckles: Brass
  • Storm Welt + Edge Stain: Champagne
  • Upper Stitching: Tonal
  • Outsole Stitching: Natural

 

LEATHERS - HORWEEN

You can't go wrong with the range of Horween's leathers offered.

Horween leathers are available on all models of boots. You can choose two leathers for a two-tone boot, but if we think the boots will be ugly, we won't make them.

 

Horween CXL Leather - Blue

BLUE CXL

A brighter, slightly green blue leather.
Will age to lighter blue color in high wear areas.

BURGUNDY CXL

Classic burgundy color. Shines easily, and ages to brighter red colors in high wear areas.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

CHOCO CXL

A dark chocolate tea-core brown leather with lots of pullup.

Darker brown and less orangey than Timber CXL.

DARK OLIVE CXL

A dark olive leather with warmer tones and lots of pullup. Neil hates photographing olive leathers because it's a pain in the ass.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

MOCHA CXL

Medium brown leather that darkens with age and patina. Pairs well with Oka Black CXL in a two-tone leather boot.

MOCHA CXL (ROUGHOUT)

This roughout is darker, warmer, and more saturated in color than Natural CXL. It will darken with age and patina.

NATURAL CXL

One of our favorite leathers. It has lots of pullup and darkens beautifully to a rich brown color.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

NATURAL CXL
(ROUGHOUT)

A classic. Starts out light tan color and transforms into a warm, fuzzy brown with wear.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

NAVY CXL

Darker than Blue CXL. It looks nearly black at first - but looks slightly electric blue in direct sunlight.

OKA BLACK CXL
(TEA CORE)

The classic tea-core Black CXL that John Lofgren boots are known for. Ages to a dark brown in high wear areas over time.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

SHIN BLACK CXL
(ALL BLACK)

For when you want your black boots to stay black. This is the same as Oka Black CXL - but the black dye penetrates through to the core of the leather.

Will age to a light gray color in high wear areas over time - but a coat of quality black boot polish will keep them looking like new.

SHIN BLACK CXL
(ROUGHOUT)

A not-quite-black-but-dark-dark-dark-charcoal color roughout. Similar in color and tone to our Black Cat M-43 Boots.

 

TIMBER CXL

A classic warm, slightly reddish brown leather with lots of pullup. Pairs well with Oka Black CXL.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

HAVANA HORSEHIDE SHF

A medium-dark brown horsehide leather with a shiny finish and a fair amount of grain variation and texture. There may be areas with varying degrees of grain tension that appear wrinkly.

The leather is not a horsebutt - it's a single horse front leather - thinner and much more soft and compliant.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

WHISKEY CAVALIER

Think of this leather as a lighter, younger, more sprightly version of Timber CXL. It's an orangeish, slightly reddish brown that will darken beautifully with time, age and perhaps anger.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

LEATHERS - SHINKI SHELL CORDOVAN

If you know - you know. The diamond-crusted filet mignon of leathers. Only the finest membranes are extracted from the finest horsebutts at Shinki Hikaku tannery in Himeji, Japan.

The Shinki Shell Cordovan used is of the oiled finish variant - it's glossy and rich in color.

Shinki Shell Cordovan is available only on the following models

  • Combat Boot
  • Glover Brogues
  • Steadfast Chukka
  • USN Shoe

#1 NATURAL SHELL

Natural shell cordovan ages to a dark brown over time, similar to an undyed vegetable tanned leather.

#3 RED-BROWN SHELL

Think of this is a lighter colored burgundy - similar to a Color 4 Shell Cordovan "sourced from Chicago" but different.

#4 COGNAC SHELL

If you're drinking a glass of booze that's the same color as this leather, it's probably pretty damn tasty...and been sitting in a barrel too long.

The #4 Cognac shell is a beautiful reddish brown that is darker than the #3 Red-Brown Shell.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

#8 OLIVE SHELL

This is a yellowish olive color shell - very similar in color to the Limited Edition M-43 Boots in Olive Shinki Horsebutt, but shinier and with less horsebutt grain.

#9 BLUE SHELL

This leather is VERY BLUE. Rumor has it that Shinki attempted to copyright this color in the style of Yves Klein, but bureaucracy and bitterness towards the French prevented this from occuring.

#10 BLACK SHELL

You want shiny black boots? This is for you.

This shell is not tea-core; the leather has been dyed all the way to the core. But that's how we like it - shiny black shell boots that stay shiny black.

LEATHERS - JAPANESE CALF

This leather is tanned by French people in France, and then finished and dyed in Japan. The result is akin to a sober version of Museum Calf - slight variations in color and tone that make the leather stand out from the very-uniform box calf type of leathers.

This leather is shiny, takes a polish well, and has a very smooth and soft temper. Jeremy is quite enamored with the idea of an M-43 or USN Shoe made from this calf leather.

Japanese Calf leathers are available on all models of boots.

We do NOT recommend mixing Japanese Calf leathers with Horween leathers. A rivalry between American and French tanneries lasting hundreds of years will rear its ugly head and your boots will perish during production.

2165 LIGHT BROWN CALF

It's a light brown, right in the middle. If you're the type of person that likes to hedge risks and put half and half in your coffee - this leather caters to your sensibilities. And it probably looks like your coffee.

Chrome-tanned with pigment / aniline finish.

2253 LIGHT BROWN CALF

It's got 88 less brown units than the 2165 Light Brown. It's nearly a tan color - reminds us of a whiskey color or the OG Alden Indy 405 color, but better.

Chrome-tanned with aniline / casein finish.

2275 BROWN CALF

It's a medium brown that borders on medium-dark brown. Has a slightly reddish tone to it.

Chrome-tanned with pigment / aniline finish.

2293 DARK BROWN CALF

Yep, it's a dark brown, with a little bit of red tone to it. Look closely and you'll see what we're talking about with the slight color variation and tone.

Chrome-tanned with aniline / casein finish.

2295 DARK BROWN CALF

Slightly lighter in color than the 2293 Dark Brown - and much more consistent in tone/variation. It's a more sober brown, one you can trust your children with while you're at the pub.

Chrome-tanned with pigment / aniline finish.

2393 BURGUNDY CALF

This is a damn good burgundy. It's the same leather found on the Burgundy Steadfast Chukka.

Chrome-tanned with aniline / casein finish.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

2693 NAVY CALF

YA shiny, slightly variegated navy that shines brighter blue in direct sunlight.

Chrome-tanned with aniline / casein finish.

2788 GREEN CALF

A gorgeous blue-green, almost teal color with a lot of shine and slightly color variegation.

Chrome-tanned with aniline / casein finish.

BLACK CALF

Technically black is not a color but the absence of color. However that technology does not exist in leather chemistry, so we offer you the next best thing: a great, shiny black calfskin leather.

Chrome-tanned with pigment / aniline finish.

It's the same leather used on the Black Steadfast Chukka.

Photos of boots made with this leather:

LEATHERS - JAPANESE COW SUEDE

Soft, supple Japanese calf suede that is tanned and dyed in Japan. These leathers are used on the Desert Boots and are a great alternative to a thicker roughout leather.

NAVY COW SUEDE

A darker, saturated navy suede that ages to bright blue in high wear areas.

See this leather on the Desert Boots.

OLIVE JP COW SUEDE

A muted, darker olive colored leather.

See this leather on the Desert Boots.

SAND COW SUEDE

A terrific light tan color - sand, if you prefer - that darkens beautifully with age.

See this leather on the Desert Boots.

TOBACCO JP COW SUEDE

A reddish, lighter colored tobacco suede. It looks a bit pale when new - but after a few months of wear, it darkens up to the color it should be. Think of this leather as similar to an undyed vegetable tanned one - you wear it for what it's going to look like - now what it looks like when new.

See this leather on the Desert Boots.




LEATHERS - BADALASSI

Three options in cowhide from Italian tannery Badalassi.

Badalassi leather is not available on the M-43 Boots.

BADALASSI COGNAC

A beautiful vegetable tanned, light tan leather. Will darken significantly with wear and age.

Used on the Engineer Boots

BADALASSI GRIGIO

A lighter olive leather with more tonal variation than the Horween Olive. Expect this leather to darken and stain over time, changing noticeably with wear.

Used on the Engineer Boots

BADALASSI TOBACCO

A deep brown with reddish undertones that will age beautifully as it scuffs and wears down.

EYELETS AND SPEED HOOKS

You can choose between four colors of eyelets or three colors of speedhooks.

If you have an aversion to speed hooks - your pair can be made with all eyelets on lace-up models.

BROWN EYELETS

BLACK EYELETS

BRASS EYELETS

NICKEL EYELETS

BUCKLES (ENGINEER BOOTS)

We have two options for buckles on engineer boots - brass and a polished shiny nickel.

BRASS BUCKLE

NICKEL BUCKLE

STORM WELT AND EDGE STAIN

There are four options for the storm welt and edge stain (midsole and heel stack) - Natural, Champagne, Brown and Black.

NATURAL

CHAMPAGNE

BROWN

BLACK

SOLES + HEELS

For this MTO, we only offer the stock sole supplied with each boot, with one exception - on the Engineer Boot, you can choose a Vibram #700 full sole and heel in Black or Brown colors, or the Vibram #705 half sole and heel in Black only.

CHELSEA BOOT

VIBRAM #430 MINILUG
BLACK

COMBAT BOOT
ENGINEER BOOT
M-43 BOOT

VIBRAM #700 V-BAR
BLACK

COMBAT BOOT
ENGINEER BOOT
M-43 BOOT

VIBRAM #700 V-BAR
BROWN

ENGINEER BOOT

VIBRAM #705 V-BAR
HALF SOLE + HEEL
BLACK

GLOVER BROGUES

VIBRAM #2055 ETON
BROWN

MOC TOE BOOT

VIBRAM #4014 WEDGE
WHITE

STEADFAST CHUKKA
USN SHOE

VIBRAM #2027 SOLE
#5350 HEEL
BLACK

STITCHING COLORS

UPPER STITCHING

Upper stitching options are

  • Tonal (will approximately match the leather)
  • Off white (only available on M-43)

OUTSOLE STITCHING

Outsole stitching options are

  • Natural
  • Black

UPPER STITCHING

TONAL

UPPER STITCHING

OFF WHITE

OUTSOLE STITCHING

NATURAL

OUTSOLE STITCHING

BLACK

We don't have sample photos of black outsole stitching. You'll have to use your imaginations.

Leathers

We're offering a larger variety of leathers than are found on stock John Lofgren boots. You can choose multiple different leathers for one pair of boots.

Shinki Shell Cordovan (Oiled Finish)

Available on Combat Boots, Chukka Boots, Glover Brogues, USN Low Quarter Shoes

  • Natural
  • Red Brown
  • Cognac
  • Olive
  • Blue
  • Black

Badalassi Leathers

Available on all models except M-43 Boots

  • Cognac cowhide
  • Grigio cowhide
  • Tobacco Cowhide

Horween Leathers

Available on all models

  • Natural CXL
  • Burgundy CXL
  • Mocha CXL
  • Oka Black CXL (teacore)
  • Shin Black CXL (dyed black to the core)
  • Dark Olive CXL
  • Blue CXL
  • Navy CXL
  • Choco CXL
  • Timber CXL
  • Whiskey Cavalier
  • Havana Horsehide

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